Clothes Shopping in 2018: what’s the answer?

TL;DR? These questions that I want answers for: What’s up with all the discounts? Are designer brands worth it? Is “Made in Italy” actually better than “Made in China”?

Since I hit 30, I’ve been trying to buy less but better. It would appear that, by the power of osmosis or some other form of wizardry, all those articles on “staple pieces” and “minimal wardrobes” have actually sunk in.

Not that I’m going to start harping on about the benefits of open wardrobes and whittling down to just 10 items. Don’t worry; there’s no chance of that! Because my clothes range from office suits to harvesting garb, Texas cowboy boots to cute shoe boots, plus all the beautiful scarves that I picked up while living in Paris, I need space… and because I’m not the tidiest of person, I need that space to be able to be closed off and hidden away.

I think my recent approach to clothes came from a more environmentally-conscientious place. I couldn’t – and still can’t – understand how shops like Primark and H&M are able to sell at such low prices without at least under-paying for the raw materials and exploiting their workforce.  Continue reading “Clothes Shopping in 2018: what’s the answer?”

Day 1 of the Low FODMAP Diet

I cleared out the kitchen cupboard this morning. Everything that I can’t eat (but my boyfriend can) has been moved to a higher shelf so that they are out of my direct eyeline when I am looking for ingredients.

Seeing how bare my section had become, I went to the supermarket. It took me an hour, assessing each item, reading the ingredients’ list. “Fucking cipolla” I cursed quietly but repeatedly. Many gluten-free, lactose-free, sugar-free, seemingly-ok foods had onion powder lurking at the bottom of the list of ingredients.

One of the biggest changes for me is having to now see food as alimentation. I’ve always eaten for pleasure. I enjoy the flavours, the textures and would eat as healthily and as variedly as possible.

For example, yesterday, I would have taken a fennel bulb, sliced it finely, added a glug of olive oil, maybe some lemon juice and a sprinkling of fleur de sel and would put it in a serving bowl so we should share it equally between the two of us.

Today, I took the fennel bulb and I weighed it. 170g. I consulted the booklet and then cut off a third (approximately the 50g that I’m allowed on the FODMAP diet) and put that on my plate.

bowl close up delicious fennel

I’m no longer looking at food thinking: ‘oooh, that’d be good, I could make it into….’ Instead, I’m double-checking the ingredients list and cursing.

Over lunch, I explained to the boy what this means for him.

Before we would only eat meat once or twice a week. Our diet was based around wholemeal flour – for pasta, as well as our sourdough bread or pizza dough – spelt grains, chickpeas, lentils and fresh, organic vegetables straight from the allotment. (Did you read about my orto?) All of these have now been moved to the top shelf (apart from the vegetables – fortunately I hadn’t planted anything on the red list) and I’m going back to basics.

Here’s what’s on the menu for the next couple of days: steak and potatoes and a boiled or steamed vegetable. Chicken curry and rice (skipping the onion, obviously.) Vegetable stir-fry with rice vermicelli or buckwheat noodles…

Just one last thing, even though this diet is restrictive, alternative-diet foodstuffs were much easier to find in the supermarket than I had feared. They cost considerably more but if this diet is only for a month or two, I can deal with that.

Starting a Low FODMAP Diet

I’ve been struggling with my gut over the last few months. What I thought was a relatively straightforward lactose intolerance seems, actually, to be more complicated.

Certain foods will trigger unsavoury reactions – sometimes immediately, other times within a half hour. There’s no simply identifiable pattern. Cheap bottled beers can provoke a sudden reaction, or a vodka and lemonade, and other times just a handful of humble Malteasers will render me horizontal.

After a tense couple of months of me keeping track of everything I ate and drank, my gut still wasn’t giving me a discernable answer. It’s somewhat hypocritical of me (as a person who writes about food, wine and cheese online) to say that I didn’t trust the suggestions that I would read on health / food / lifestyle webzines.

I went to see a specialist dietetian yesterday and after a very informative consultation, the conclusion was these three simple words “low FODMAP diet.”

I was sent away with a couple of hefty booklets, told to read them carefully, to follow them strictly and to make contact with the doctor again in a month’s time.

FODMAP is a simple abbreviation for the diverse and complex categories of food which the human body finds particularly hard to digest. The FODMAP diet is essentially an elimination diet. I need to completely cut out these food groups (namely, lactose, gluten, beans, pulsees and legumes, and certain fruits and vegetables) in order to reintroduce them one-by-one again gradually and sense my body’s reaction.

It’s going to be tough, especially when going out with friends socially, to stick to this diet. I was aware of the FODMAP diet even before the consultation but I had hoped that there might have been a simpler solution. I guess my gut knew that this was the next step…. but my brain didn’t want to accept it.

I’ll start the diet tomorrow with the plan to stick to it religiously for the next 4 weeks.

It means no more pizza, pasta, bread, (unless they are gluten free); onions and garlic are absolute no; chick peas, beans and pulses are also out. Strangely, sweet dessert wines, rum, honey and agave nectar are all out but maple syrup is ok. Rice, corn and potatoes are ok. Meat and fish also. One of the weirdest things is that I’m allowed just one quarter of avocado and half a grapefruit per day.

Tomorrow the diet gets underway in earnest. I’ll report back.

Day 1: link here

I’ve Fallen Under The Spell Of Capodistria

“Where is Capodistria?” you are probably asking yourselves. I myself had only heard about the town in passing and almost certainly wouldn’t have been able to place it on a map. But as the boy, the dog and I drove back to Italy from Croatia, we spent the morning tracking along the Istrian coast.


I use the name Capodistria, but it would – strictly speaking – be more correct to use its Slovenian name, Koper. Koper is the 5th largest city in Slovenia and its only commercial port.

I prefer the Italian name because of the reference to the town’s historical importance when it was once the “Capo d’Istria” meaning head of Istria. Koper, on the other hand, is derived from the Ancient Greek and then Latin name for “goat town.” Decidedly less romantic!


In the 14th and 15th century, the town of Capodistria was the prosperous capital of Venetian Istria, at a time when the Venetian Republic was one of the more powerful in the world. Successive bouts of plague weakened the importance of this city and it subsequently lost out to neighbouring Trieste in terms of commercial importance.

Just one last piece of geography: Istria is the long, narrow stretch of rocky coastline that runs from Trieste in Italy through Slovenia and down deep into Croatia. The Ancient Greeks referred to the inhabitants of this area as the Histrian tribes. Istria became part of Yugoslavia after the Second World War. Slovenia, a country which was only granted independence after the break-up of Yugoslavia in 1991, is almost entirely landlocked, with just 1% of the country’s total being the 29 miles of Istrian coastline.


So, why did I fall under its spell? Because I wasn’t expecting anything like the architectural beauty and the accessible but historical small-town vibe that I experienced.

Pula/Pola in Croatia felt like an extended and even more torturous version of rue Steinkerque, the road that leads from Anvers métro station to the foot of the Sacré Coeur in Paris. Shops that, for as far as the eye can see, are selling over-priced magnets, postcards, t-shirts, and tourist souvenirs that you’ll get home and think, ‘why did I buy this crap?’

Capodistria, on the other hand, felt genuine and personable. Being only 3 miles south of the Italian border and blessed with a Mediterranean climate, it has a fantastic relaxed café culture. You can sit by the port and order a cappuccino and brioche while watching kids play in the water or the boats moor up in the harbour.

Head just a hundred metres inland and you’ll discover the stunning mediaeval old town. It’s all pedestrianised so you can stroll around at ease. If you’ve been to Venice, it won’t take you long to spot all the Venetian influences on the buildings and in its architecture. There’s a constant supply of St Mark’s lions, of plaques in remembrance of Venetian dignitaries and the like.


Capodistria is not particularly easy to get to. It’d be worth flying into Trieste or Venice and then spending a couple of days here for a lazy city-break. You won’t be overwhelmed with things to do but you will find ways to fill the days – exploring the narrow streets and climbing the City Tower – and you’ll leave recharged and relaxed.


There’s not a lot of information available online but the I Feel Slovenia official website is a good resource:

If you want to prolong your stay in Slovenia – or you’ve arrived in Capodistria on a day when a cruise ship has just docked – try the town of Piran – which is smaller, similar but even more perfectly preserved.

Strawberry Vinegar Shrub

There’s no point in denying it any longer. The evidence is all there on the top and middle shelves of my refrigerator: I’m a hipster. If you should have the misfortune to open my fridge, you’ll see them there as clear as day. Various containers in glass or plastic with a makeshift label.

Not only am I pickling courgettes (what else can I do when I have this glut from the garden?) but I’ve started making shrubs. Continue reading “Strawberry Vinegar Shrub”

“Uffa” – essential vocabulary when renovating in Italy

According to Word Reference, the Italian word “uffa” means “what a bore!” But, as you most probably already know, Italians have their own body language too and when uffa is accompanied by a shrug of the shoulders, maybe a pair of eyes darting up to the heavens, a helluva lot more can be conveyed in those two short syllables. I’ve heard it being used to signify a whole range of emotions from boredom to dejection but also desperation.

As the house renovation progresses, I have found myself using uffa more than I would have liked over the last two weeks.

The first time was finding out that our made-to-measure bathtub had actually been made to the wrong measurements!


Though it is a decent size (9 sq m), our bathroom doesn’t have a single corner at 90° (do you remember my post about Pythagorus?), it has a sliding door in the centre stopping us from using that part of it (i.e. no tubes or toilets) and on the only really good wall, there has two windows which categorically rule out any other kind of sanitary artifice. All this adds a certain je ne sais quoi when you’re trying to add elements which are – generally speaking – square or requiring privacy.

Consequently, our bathtub was going to be made to spec – with a rounded finish compensating for the the lack of right angles. The shower unit is already installed and when we inquired when the bathtub might be arriving and received that email above…… our reaction was a simultaneous: “uffa!”

If only it were just the bathroom people who are making mistakes.

On Saturday, the carpenters came to fit the shutters that they’d been cleaned up and restored….. only to find that as a result of some really shoddy workmanship from Tweedledum and Tweedledee (our two insulation fitters / painters / buffoons) the outside walls are very visibly not straight.

The shutters were taken straight back to the carpentry workshop for more adjustments. Uffa. 

Today, I’ve just shown the boss of the flooring company that two of the four tiles that were fitted just over a month ago have come loose.

It was little short of a miracle that the plumber came this morning to fit our boiler…… but he left after just a few minutes having made this unfortunate discovery. This then meant calling the flooring company who came round to take a look. Fortunately the boss has promised that, this evening, a workman will come to glue down the tiles once again….. but we’ve lost valuable time because of all these incompetencies. Now, we’ll cross our fingers and pray to the powers-that-be that the plumber comes back again before the end of the week. Uffa. 

Despite all this doom and gloom, the word uffa has a pretty interesting origin. It dates back to around the 14th century when the Vatican State was building St Peter’s cathedral. Because it was for the Pope, all the necessary goods which arrived (stones, sand, sacks, sheep, mules) were stamped with the Latin abbreviation “A.U.F.” which stands for “Ad Usum Fabricae” and gave all these goods total tax exemption. Because there were so many of these items needed for the construction project, the customs officers spent their days saying “auf! auf!” and over time, that morphed into uffa.

Similarly when work started on the Duomo in Florence, all the materials were stamped with: “A U.F.O” meaning “Ad usum Florentinae Operae” and were therefore exempt from the city taxes. Even to this day, “a ufo” means “free” i.e. mangiare a ufo = to eat for free.

Problems On The Horizon

A man turned up on my doorstep earlier today and he asked “is Alessandro home?”

“No, he’s not back yet,” I reply.

“Ok, then I’ll tell you. Your dog has destroyed my vegetable patch. I saw with my own eyes that your dog was at the vineyard this morning and now I come home and find that he has walked all over the patch of land where yesterday I’d sown some beans.”

So, to give some background to this story, this man owns a house which neighbours on one of our vineyards. He actually lives down in the centre of town but has this rural house high up on the hill which he uses for its vegetable patch and for the occasional party.

I say I’m very sorry about the dog, that I’ll tell Alessandro to be more careful and that it won’t happen again.

An hour or so later, Alessandro comes home and I ask him, “Ale, is that man – y’know, probably about 70 years old, full head of white hair, yay high, rather tanned – is he the same man that you had problems with a couple of days ago?”

Oh no, my heart sinks.

This man is the father of the boss of the electrical company that’s been contracted to do our house renovation.

It’s also the same man who had a rather heated dispute with Alessandro’s father just two days ago.

You see, a couple of days ago, Alessandro and his father got a call from their manure guy – yes, it appears that most organic farmers round here have a manure guy – and the guy says that he has a truckload of manure that nobody wants. Would you take it? I’ll leave it, if you like, on that vineyard up on the hill, just as we’ve done in the past, he suggests.

Alessandro and his father accept this kind offer, “yes, we’ll take it.”

“Would you like two truckloads of manure?” the manure guy clearly has a lot of the stinky stuff to shift.

He’s in luck. “Yeah, sure, no problem,” is the reply.

Unfortunately on that same Friday night that the white-haired electrician is preparing to entertain guests at his rustic retreat, what can only be described as a mountain of manure is unloaded right next to his house!!

So not only has my dog damaged his vegetable patch but the poor man has had to have a party with the equivalent of Vesuvius smouldering away right next door. I have a feeling that our electrics might be rather compromised after these two incidents……

Pavimento alla Veneziana – the local handmade flooring option

Venice is famous for so many things: the canals, its once massive maritime empire, Piazza San Marco, the bronze horses stolen from Byzantium, the Harry’s Bar, Murano glass, its overpriced restaurants…. but did you know it also has its own traditional type of flooring?

Pavimento alla Veneziana, or sometimes also known as terrazzo, started in the 16th century. In its most primitive state, small bits of broken marble (there’s quite a lot of marble in this area) were scattered upon the floor and then bound with a resinous material to form a durable and resistant surface.

For our house renovation, we chose wooden (dark oak) floors for the bedrooms but decided to put down Veneziana in the living areas.


In the 1950s-1990s, bold terracotta colours were particularly popular but that’s gone out of style now in favour of a very minimalist plain white.

The wonderful thing about Veneziana flooring is that it’s made to order. Each one is completely unique and you can choose the exact composition of the stones. In our case, we went for an off-white base with red gems from China, dark green stones from Portugal, and a little bit of mother of pearl (but that’s the most expensive) and some caramel coloured stones to break it up.

All the stones arrived in their raw state and are laid on-site, all by hand.

White stones for the base layer

First, they create a base layer (in our case, white) upon which they’ll randomly scatter the decorative stones (for us: mainly red, green and mother of pearl.) It’s all down to the skill and experience of the workmen to make sure that there’s not an area with too much of any particular colour.

They use these very attractive waders as they’re laying down the floor.

When they’ve finished laying the stones, they set the whole thing with another hefty layer of lime and you have no idea what the finished floor will look like!


The flooring is left to set for about a month, when the workmen come back again to start shaving off the top coat. Before you think, “oh, it’s practically finished” – no, our guys will go over each square centimetre of flooring 7 times before they call it a day.

Essentially, with the machine below, they remove the top coat and shave off the almost half of the stones so you have a totally smooth, shiny surface.


Treating the floor with linseed oil

We’ve now got to the stage (six weeks after they first laid the stones) where the decorative stone layer is now visible but there’s still one last polishing treatment needed.

Just the outer edges of the rooms are ready…

*Almost* finished!


Readying The Vegetable Patch

Progress on the house has been slow over the past month or two and so I’ve turned my attention to something that I can have direct control over, without waiting on a boiler pump, flooring tiles or – even worse – a bathroom contractor to show up.

I’ve wanted a vegetable patch for a while but didn’t think that an opportunity would present itself as quickly as it did. It’s a beautiful south-to-south-westerly facing plot which is almost entirely in full sunshine but with a little stretch of shade under the fig trees in the far end.

Whilst I’ve been day-dreaming about this “orto” (“vegetable patch” in Italian) I’m not going to hide that I’m also rather intimidated about the whole thing. Continue reading “Readying The Vegetable Patch”

Onwards And Upwards: The Roof And The Walls

IMG_20180327_152045_667.jpgWe’re moving forward with the house renovation!

It’s all getting rather exciting. As of today, the roof is now finished – new layer of insulation underneath, new tiles, a couple more windows to bring in more light, and the solar panels…. It’s taken a while but it’s finished and finally the builders are starting to take some of the scaffolding down.

Next up is the insulation around the walls of the house – called “cappotto” in Italian, the same word you would use for a “coat.” We should have started this quite a while back, but because the panels are held on with glue (at least provisionally) we couldn’t do it when there was a risk of frost.

Basically this insulation consists of putting 10cm-thick insulating panels all the way around the house. These are being glued on for now but later, will be drilled into the brickwork. On top of this, we’ll put a finishing coat and then the paint of our choice.


It’s kind of weird to think of a house have a insulating coat on top of the bricks but it’s apparently widely recommended in these parts to save energy.

In the photo below, which hasn’t had its cladding installed yet, do you see how the door frame is standing completely unattached from the rest of the house?

Yep, well when they get round it to that part of the house, that gap will be completely filled in!

We also need to put some insulation on the left-hand-side wall, because even though it’s an internal wall, it borders onto the wine cellar and therefore needs something more substantial…. apparently. I’m still learning!